This is an incredible celebration held on June 23rd that the entire city participates in. What is it? São João originated as a pagan festivity back in the 14th century as a celebration and thanks to the sun god for a good harvest and abundance. It was later christianised as a celebration to São João (St. John the Baptist) by the Church, but many of the pagan customs persist, like the usage of wild leek, basil and the bonfires.
On the previous day we decided to walk along some new areas above the river which provided some beautiful views both directions. It started off cloudy but as the day wore on the weather turned perfect. We passed lots of grilling sardines and ended up stopping in a small local neighborhood area to join a tent of people for a traditional São João lunch.
After lunch we walked across the Infante Dom Henrique Bridge for some gorgeous views and clouds.
Then we headed down to walk back along the waterfront.
On the big day the city began coming alive! Everywhere we walked we saw grills being set up and numerous people on the street selling the plastic hammers that are part of the fun. I think traditionally they used wilted leeks but at some point they moved to this instead. We were told the festivities would include lightly pounding the head of strangers we met on the street with our plastic hammer and we should expect the same treatment back. It seemed like people wouldn't really be doing this, but we each purchased one for 1 euro and prepared ourselves. We discovered it makes a squeaky noise as you use it.
And WOW were we unprepared for the absolute street party that began to take place on EVERY street you walked down: food being grilled (mostly sardines served on a bread roll), hammers squeaking, music, dancing, drinking and happy happy people beginning to gather together. People of all ages were out participating and enjoying themselves.
The best São João sandwich I've had so far has been at a small shop called A Sandeira do Porto. I enjoyed it with a delicious bowl of leek soup for a total of 7.40 euros. Amazing.
As the evening wore on we made our way down to the river and the noise level just amplified! Thousands of people using squeaky hammers and competing music! It was wild and we were surprised at how much we loved it all and enjoyed being caught up in it.
After lots of walking and dancing we found a wall, with a good view, to sit on and just watched the sun go down.
More and more people just kept coming and once it got dark we began to watch groups lighting small hot air balloons. It seemed to take quite a bit of patience and skill to get them to fill up enough that they could rise up into the sky, but soon there were tons of them floating up all around us and across the river. It was magical looking.
We also saw some that didn't quite make it and seemed like a disaster waiting to happen! Wonder how often the fire Dept has to come to the rescue?
OK We admit it.....we didn't last until midnight when the fireworks went off. Because well the real party doesn't start until MIDNIGHT....and by 10pm we were exhausted and kinda ready to get out of the crowds and noise. The thought of waiting another two hours to see them was too much for these oldies... but feeling pretty proud of ourselves for staying up as late as we did we headed home to collapse and heard it all continue through our open windows. It was quite an experience and damn, Portugal you know how to throw a festival.
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